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Blanket your garden with a cosy winter mulch
Blanket your garden with a cosy winter mulch ofWinter blankets for gardens One of the best ways to prepare the garden for winter is by piling a layer of organic mulch onto your flowerbeds. This is especially important in regions of the country where snowfall is unreliable, which often leaves the ground bare and plants exposed to weather extremes. Insulate the groundSurprisingly, rather than keeping the soil warm, mulch acts like a deep blanket of snow to keep the cold in the ground, moderating fluctuating temperatures so that plants remain safely dormant all winter long. This protects roots from freezing during sudden cold snaps and thawing during mild spells, a cycle that can heave plants from the ground, damage roots and place plants under stress. Leafy blanketsIn most parts of the country, leaves are plentiful if—not in your own garden, then in a neighbour’s, and most make excellent mulch. But, not all leaves are alike. Small leaves from trees such as birch, gingko and lindens are beneficial because they allow rainfall and natural moisture to percolate through to the soil surface, ready for plants to absorb in the spring. These kinds of leaves also decompose more quickly than larger ones once the ground warms, adding nutrients to the soil and improving its texture. On the other hand, the large, leathery leaves of Norway maples, for example, mat together to form a barrier that blocks out water. If only large leaves are available in your area, shred them with a shredder/chipper or leaf-eater/shredder, or spread them on the lawn and run a mower over them. Organic muchesIn areas where leaves are scarce, straw makes a good organic insulating material (stay away from hay, which often contains weed seeds). However, it breaks down very slowly and adds few nutrients to the soil, so remove the mulch as soon as the ground warms up in the spring. Evergreen boughs offer good winter protection, too. They’re especially effective when gently placed over marginally hardy plants as well as alpines, which demand good drainage. Time it rightBecause the goal is to hold the cold in the soil over the winter, mulch should be applied as soon as the ground freezes. Earlier than this and rodents, such as mice and voles, will bed down in this cosy winter home and munch on succulent plant roots. It’s also safer to wait and mulch around the trunks and stems of trees and shrubs while they’re dormant because it reduces the risk of creating conditions where fungal diseases can thrive. To effectively protect your flowerbeds, apply a deep layer of between six and 12 centimetres of mulch. Once the ground starts to warm up in the spring, remove the mulch and reserve it for compost, which can be reapplied to the beds in the summer to help retain moisture in the ground and keep weeds under control.- Credit
- Lorraine Flanigan
Blanket your garden with a cosy winter mulch
Protect your plants from winter's harsh weather with a layer of mulch more
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Witch hazel: A tree that blooms in winter
Witch hazel: A tree that blooms in winter ofWitch hazel a.k.a. hamamelis spp. A shrub that blooms in the middle of winter? That's right. Imagine a barren winter landscape with snowdrifts and grey streets brought to life by plants covered with small flowers that look like mini-firecrackers or tiny party streamers. That's witch hazel (Hamamelis spp.), a large shrub that blooms in late fall or late winter, depending on the species, with unique yellow, gold, orange or red flowers. Witch hazels are outstanding landscape plants, particularly in the eastern part of the country from Ontario to Nova Scotia. The flowers are one to two centimetres long, and most cultivars have a delightful spicy fragrance. During the summer, small, horned, capsule-shaped fruit grows at the base of the flowers, eventually splitting to eject two to four shiny black seeds, usually in fall. Foliage is not as showy during the summer months, but as fall approaches, the dark green leaves turn yellow with hints of purple and red. The alternate, oval-shaped leaves are six to 15 centimetres long and are slightly tooth-edged with hairy undersides. There are four main species and one hybrid (H. x intermedia), which is a cross between H. japonica and H. mollis, and almost 100 named varieties, mostly cultivars of H. intermedia. The two species native to North America are common witch hazel (H. virginiana, Zone 4), which blooms in late fall, and vernal witch hazel (H. vernalis, Zone 5), which blooms in early spring. Both are loosely spreading shrubs with an open habit and grow from 4.5 metres tall (vernal) to 10 metres tall (common witch hazel).Native witch hazels grow in shade but tolerate some sun. Although they can be grown in all kinds of soil, they prefer moist, well-drained conditions. Little pruning is required except to tidy their shape; errant branches should be cut off during flowering.Propagation by cuttings works best. Seeds require patience because germination time is notoriously slow (it could take more than a year). Harvest seed capsules while still green and put in a paper bag so the projectile seed will be captured. Fresh seeds should be stored at room temperature in a sealed paper bag or cardboard box (so they can dry out) for about five months, then at 4°C for three months before sowing in fall. Popular cultivars Which witch?The name witch hazel probably originated from the early settlers' practice of using the plant's forked branches for water divining and to make brooms. It may also have derived from the Anglo-Saxon word wice, meaning “supple” or “pliant.” Hazel refers to the similarities between witch hazel and the true hazels of the genus Corylus. The plant also goes by several other common names, including striped alder and winterbloom. Another of its epithets, snapping hazel, comes from the sound its pods make when they ripen and snap open, shooting seeds up to 10 metres away. Its botanical name, Hamamelis, is derived from two Greek words: hama, meaning “together” and mela, meaning “fruit.” This refers to the fact that you'll sometimes find plants with flowers andfruit at the same time.Popular cultivarsH. x intermedia ‘Arnold Promise' Its clear yellow, fragrant flowers have a reddish base; blooms from late February to March. Zone 5‘Diane' One of the most brilliant red varieties; it blooms in February. Zone 6‘Feuerzauber' a.k.a. ‘Fire Charm' The large coppery orange flowers of this beauty bloom in February; in fall its foliage turns to a yellow-orange. Zone 5‘Jelena' This cultivar's petals are long at 2.5 centimetres; they're red at the base, orange in the middle and yellow at the tip. Zone 5‘Pallida' A sweetly fragrant variety with pale yellow flowers that bloom in late February. Zone 5‘Ruby Glow' Its coppery red flowers mature to reddish brown in February and March. The summer leaf colour is medium green, turning to a combination of orange and red in the fall. Zone 4‘Sunburst' The lemon yellow flowers appear in late January. Zone 5H. japonica ‘Zuccariniana' Its orange-yellow foliage gives way to pale yellow flowers in February and March. Zone 5H. mollis ‘Goldcrest' The large flowers of this cultivar are yellow with red at the base and bloom from February to March. Zone 5H. vernalis ‘Lombart's Weeping' The spreading, pendent branches of this shrub have abundant orange-red flowers in mid-winter and brilliant yellow foliage in fall. Zone 4‘Sandra' Its purple leaves turn brilliant shades of yellow, orange and red in fall with cadmium yellow-coloured flowers in late winter. Zone 4. Where to get them SOURCESKEY: Hamamelis x intermedia ‘Arnold Promise': 1, H. x i. ‘Diane': 2, H. x i. ‘Feuerzauber': 3, H. x i. ‘Jelena': 4, H. x i. ‘Pallida': 5, H. x i. ‘Ruby Glow': 6, H. x i. ‘Sunburst': 7, H. japonica ‘Zuccariniana': 8, H. mollis ‘Goldcrest': 9, H. vernalis ‘Sandra': 10, H. v. ‘Lombart's Weeping': 11.Art's Nursery Ltd: 1, 2, 7. Brookside Perennials: 1, 2. Centre du Jardin Deux-Montagnes Inc.: 9. Connon Nurseries: 1, 2. Greer Gardens, Inc., 1280 Goodpasture Island Rd., Eugene, Oregon 97401; 541/686-8266: 1-5, 7-10.Groen's Nursery Ltd., 1512 Brock Rd., RR 4, Dundas, ON L9H 5E4; 905/659-6868: 1, 2, 5.Hortico Inc.: 1, 2, 6. Humber Nurseries Ltd. & Butterfly Conservatory: 1, 4-6. Mystic Woods Nursery, 4737 Gordon Rd., Campbell River, BC V9H 1T3; 250/286-1340: 2, 4, 5.PendulousPlants.Com: 11. Pickett's Nurseries Ltd., 604-465-5221: 1, 4. Rideau Woodland Ramble: 5. Vineland Nurseries: 1, 2, 4.- Credit
- Lorraine Hunter
Witch hazel: A tree that blooms in winter
The tiny yellow flowers of witch hazel warm the winter months more
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Winter wow
Winter wow ofFive minutes to wow While lovely any time, this dramatic arrangement is festive enough for the holidays. Tall amaryllis blooms and bunched boxwood branches are displayed simply in a contemporary vase with cut out sides—all the better to show off their stems; a few pine cones are tucked in for texture. Chartreuse Cymbidium orchids, kept moist in florist’s picks, add a luxurious touch (you could substitute long-stemmed roses). Pebbles at the bottom of the vase complete the look. Designed by Michael Pellegrino, Teatro Verde, Toronto.- Credit
- Name of the author
Winter wow
Whip together this five-minute flower arrangement for the holidays more
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Age before beauty Age before beauty
Age before beauty ofAge before beauty Usually the last thing we want to do is speed up the aging process. But for many gardeners, the time it can take for their bright, copper objets d’art to reach a desirable verdigris patina is too long. Here’s how your decorative garden accessories can achieve the same look in a matter of days.What you’ll need:Fine (#00) steel wool pad3 tbsp. (45 mL) salt1 cup (250 mL) vinegarspray bottle1. Using steel wool, scour copper surface thoroughly to remove any protective coating or finish.2. In a measuring cup, mix salt and vinegar together, making sure salt is completely dissolved.3. Pour mixture into bottle and spray object several times within an eight-hour period. After a day or so, copper should begin to change. If necessary, spray occasionally until desired degree of verdigris is reached.- Credit
- Canadian Gardening magazine
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African violets: easy houseplants African violets: easy houseplants
African violets: easy houseplants ofAlfrican violet varieties; basic care The African violet may just be the perfect houseplant. It blooms readily and has no specific flowering season, so it can be in bloom year-round. And it's easy to multiply and share with others. As a result, it's found worldwide, from the Far North to the Antarctic, anywhere there's a cozy windowsill for it to grow on.Its genus name is Saintpaulia, for Baron Walter von Saint Paul, who discovered it in 1892 growing wild in what is now Tanzania. The most common species is ionantha, meaning “with flowers like a violet,” an apt description, since the wild plant has purple-coloured flowers with two small upper lobes and three larger lower ones, much like the violets (Viola spp.) that grow in Canadian woodlands. Despite their similar appearance, African violets are members of the Gesneriaceae family, which also includes houseplants such as florists' gloxinias (Sinningia speciosa syn. Gloxinia speciosa), cape primrose (Streptocarpus spp.) and columneas.So much varietyMost modern African violet cultivars have uniform, broad petals, and many are semi-double or double. They come in shades of purple, pink, white and red; there are also a few yellow, bicoloured and multicoloured types. Once only spoon-shaped, leaves are now ruffled, quilted, toothed or lobed and come in every shade of green or with beautiful white, pink or yellow variegations. Perhaps the most startling change, however, has been the overall size and shape of the plant. Cultivars are classified according to rosette diameter and include micro-miniature (eight centimetres or less), miniature (eight to 15 centimetres), semi-miniature (15 to 20 centimetres), standard (20 to 40 centimetres) and finally large (more than 40 centimetres). There are also trailing violets that produce not one stem but many, arching outward and downward, ideal for hanging baskets.Basic careThe popularity of the African violet is largely due to its ability to thrive indoors. Of tropical origin, it appreciates the year-round warmth of centrally heated homes; its thick, hairy leaves are quite resistant to indoor dry air.It can also cope with less light than most other flowering plants, although bright, even illumination remains the primary key to successful flowering. Though the plant needs bright light, too much direct sun can harm it. From late spring through early fall, look for a spot that gets bright light most of the day with little full sun in the afternoon. In winter, move the plant to an east window, or a metre or so back from a southern or western one to avoid direct sun. Let the plant tell you what it needs: long, stretching petioles and leaves that bend toward the sun, or lack of bloom indicate insufficient light, while dense, compact, hard growth with bleached-out leaves tells you the plant is getting too much light. Grooming your perfect houseplant; pests and diseases Keep the growing mix (peat-based houseplant mix is fine) slightly moist; wait until it feels dry, then water abundantly, drenching it. Wet leaves can result in leaf spot, so it's best to water from below by pouring tepid water into the plant's saucer and letting it soak up what it needs. After 20 to 30 minutes, drain any surplus. Fertilize young plants with a foliage-plant fertilizer rich in nitrogen; mature ones need a flowering-plant type, richer in phosphorus. Ideally, add one-quarter of the recommended rate at each watering.GroomingIt's important to remove faded flowers and older, yellowing leaves. Give your plants a quarter turn each time you water so they don't grow unevenly.Once a year or so, repot your plants, sinking them deeper in the soil in their new pots to cover the bare stems that eventually form. Don't overpot-a planter should be about one-third the diameter of the rosette.Watch out for suckers (secondary stems growing from the leaf axils), which can result in irregularly shaped plants and reduced flowering. Remove suckers on rosette-type violets (although they're to be encouraged on trailing varieties).Pests and diseasesThe worst pest is likely the mealybug, which resembles tiny patches of white cotton and is found under leaves and at leaf axils. To control, dab them with cotton swabs dipped in rubbing alcohol, but you may have to start new plants from carefully cleaned leaf cuttings.Flower thrips cause pollen to spill onto blooms, and their nibbling on the flower lobes may cause a mottled appearance. To see if they're present, blow on a few flowers; you'll see the thrips scatter to safety. Remove all flowers and buds for a good six to eight weeks to control them.Leaf diseases such as powdery mildew are not common but can be devastating when they occur. Remove damaged leaves and increase air circulation to prevent a recurrence. Propagation; displaying violets The more, the merrierThere are many ways to propagate African violets, but the best known and easiest method is to take leaf cuttings.Choose a full-sized leaf and snap it off at the base. Don't use one of the lower leaves: they're older and can be slow to sprout. Use a sharp knife to recut the leaf petiole (stem) at a 45-degree angle; then insert the base of the petiole into a pre-moistened, sterilized potting mix or vermiculite. If your home is dry, you may prefer to cover the leaf with a clear plastic bag to maintain high humidity. Place in a brightly lit spot out of direct sun, keeping the potting mix slightly moist. New plants can appear as soon as three weeks or as late as six months.Once plantlets have reached about one-third of the height of the leaf, separate them. Carefully dig up the mother leaf and plantlets and rinse them off. Then pull the mass of baby plants apart until they're individually separated, each with one stem and a root system. Now pot these up into small containers-often you'll start seeing flowers within a year.Display caseWhere African violets look best isn't always where they bloom best-but that doesn't mean you can't have beautiful, flowering Saintpaulia throughout your home. Find a spot in your house with ideal growing conditions and declare it your own “violet nursery.” When a plant bursts into bud, move it to a preferred location; when it stops blooming, put it back in the nursery and replace it with another. By continuously recycling the plants, you'll always have blooming African violets on display.- Credit
- Larry Hodgson
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Beguiling begonias Beguiling begonias
Beguiling begonias ofBeguiling begonias Recent genetic tinkering has triggered a tidal wave of new begonias in a breathtaking variety of foliage colours, patterns and shapes that can be enjoyed year-round. Spiral, spiky or angel-winged leaves glow in iridescent silver, rich plum purple, bubblegum pink and vivid red, adding drama to both indoor and outdoor spaces. Early versions of these fancy-leafed varieties became popular in the parlours of Victorian England, having arrived from the far northeastern corner of India during the golden age of plant hunting in the mid-19th century.Today, these kings of the begonia clan have been dusted off and given a makeover. The newest introductions can tolerate high summer temperatures and humidity, as well as dry indoor winter conditions. Indoor care checklist Use a porous planting mix, such as peat moss, finely shredded coir or bark, sterilized potting soil, vermiculite and perlite, in a shallow, small-diameter—about 15 to 30 centimetres—pot. (Most begonias are shallow-rooted and do not need an extensive rooting area.)Indoors, site in bright, indirect light (for better foliage colour and flowering); turn plants weekly if light comes from only one side.Begonias prefer high humidity (above 50 per cent) but will tolerate lower levels.Avoid overwatering, but irrigate thoroughly, allowing the surface to almost dry out between applications; water sparingly in winter if plants are dormant.From spring through fall, while plants are actively growing, fertilize with 20-20-20 at quarter-strength every two weeks.Prune back upright forms to the rhizome when they become top-heavy.To propagate, take stem, rhizome or leaf cuttings at any time of the year.The foliage of modern begonia cultivars is bold, exciting and dramatic, making them terrific plants in our gardens or as houseplants all year long. There are many cultivars available; those listed on the next page are but a sampling. Cultivars ‘Benitochiba’ rex begonia (Begonia ‘Benitochiba’) 30 to 65 cm x 30 to 60 cm Pink flowers bloom sporadically during the year; bubblegum pink or silvery pink, maple leaf-shaped leaves are heavily edged in black or reddish brown; has the foliage appeal of a rex begonia and the shape of a cane type. ‘Escargot’ rex begonia (B. ‘Escargot’)30 cm x 30 cm Sparse, rosy pink blooms in winter; huge, spiral leaves resemble a snail shell and have a chocolate, champagne, silver and pewter metallic sheen. ‘Connee Boswell’ rhizomatous begonia (B. ‘Connee Boswell’)45 cm to 1 m x 50 cm Small, pink blooms; deeply incised leaves are silver with iridescent pinks and lilacs along the veins. ‘Fireworks’ rex begonia (B. ‘Fireworks’) 30 cm x 30 cm Sparse, light pink blooms appear in late spring; huge, metallic violet leaves are marked with a deep purple central star and silver highlights.Serratipetala cane-type begonia (B. serratipetala) 45 cm x 45 cm Pink flowers bloom sporadically during the year; glossy, dark green, deeply toothed foliage, dark red undersides and stems.‘Raspberry Swirl’ rex begonia (B. ‘Raspberry Swirl’) 30 cm x 60 cm Blooms are rare; silvery green-edged leaves have a central raspberry-coloured swirl and patches of red with darker red and silver; young leaves are silver and darken with age.‘Wineuma’ rex begonia (B. ‘Wineuma’) 60 cm x 60 cm Blooms are rare; large, dramatic, bronze-to-pumpkin pie-coloured, maple leaf-shaped leaves taper to a swirl near the stem, undersides are purplish bronze.- Credit
- Anne Marie Van Nest
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How-to video: Create your own terrarium How-to video: Create your own terrarium
How-to video: Create your own terrarium ofTerrarium how-to Materials needed:Terrarium (enclosed glass container, such as an aquarium)Potting soilCharcoalPebbles and decorative rocks Small scoopPlant recommendations:Dwarf ferns such as maidenhair (e.g., Adiantum hispidulum) and button (Pellaea rotundifolia) typesParlour palm seedlings (Chamaedorea elegans syn. Neanthe bella) Earth stars (e.g., Cryptanthus bivittatus)Carnivorous plants* such as Venus flytrap (Dionaea muscipula) and sundews (e.g., Drosera capensis)Flame violets (Episcia reptans, E. cupreata and their hybrids)Creeping fig (Ficus pumila)Fittonia (Fittonia albivenis)English ivy (Hedera helix)True mossesPileas (e.g., Pilea depressa, P. microphylla)clubmoss (e.g., Selaginella kraussiana)Miniature sinningias (e.g., Sinningia pusilla)Now that you have your materials, watch the video!- Credit
- Name of the author
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Amaryllis growing tips Amaryllis growing tips
Amaryllis growing tips ofThe Spectacular Amaryllis Every fall, Canadians buy more than half a million amaryllis bulbs. And it's no wonder. I consider the easygoing amaryllis (Hippeastrum spp.) a marvel because no other plant delivers such spectacular blooms-with absolutely no effort on my part-in the middle of our far-too-long winters.Even neglectful indoor gardeners (and I am one) can be winners at growing amaryllis. They are such delightfully trouble-free plants, not often bothered by pests or disease. At least 20 of them regularly grace pots around my house in winter; the sight of their sensual, trumpet-shaped blooms unfurling is always uplifting when the weather's foul. From whence hails the amiable amaryllis? It's a native of South America, where it still grows wild in some areas. Back in the 1800s, amaryllis bulbs were costly and rare. Luminaries such as Napolean's wife Empress Josephine and former U.S. president Thomas Jefferson eagerly collected them. But despite the willingness of collectors to spend big bucks, there were few cultivars available, and everyone had to settle for blooms in that now tiresome fire-engine red.Exciting and exotic cultivarsToday, amaryllis are less expensive and much more exciting. Hybridizers as far afield as Australia, Israel and India keep developing new varieties in many sizes, styles and shapes, boasting colours that range from tangerine to pale green. My two current favourites are ‘Picotee', whose massive, stark-white petals outlined in red are sculptural perfection, and H. papilio ‘Butterfly', which is something of a misfit because it resembles a butterfly and produces lime-coloured petals striped with a rather startling maroon.Also worth checking out are the trendy Cybister Hybrids developed four decades ago by American hybridizer Fred Meyer. These have pencil-thin stems and spiky, peculiarly curving petals, like those of some orchids. For years, the Cybisters were primarily grown as cut flowers (and still are, in the Netherlands), but they're now popping up in some garden centres and bulb catalogues. I've found the Cybisters to be less dependable than tried-and-true amaryllis. Even so, they're an interesting novelty and I'm trying more this year. Whatever the type, all amaryllis have ridiculously simple growing requirements: Plant them in the fall in a pot with the top third of the bulb above the soil's surface. They'll thrive in virtually any growing mix, but I like to add a scoop of gritty horticultural sand to improve drainage. Heavier clay pots are preferable to plastic ones, which tend to topple over when the large stalks develop. Place them in a well-lit spot and water when you remember. That's about it. Care and Feeding Care and FeedingTo make amaryllis bloom again, remove the seed head after flowering and let the leaves develop normally. Then put the pot outdoors in a semi-shaded area after all chance of frost has past.Fertilize every month with a water-soluble product such as 20-20-20 to produce lots of healthy, green foliage.Keep the pot well watered; don't let it dry out. A mulch of leaves or straw over the surface of the pot will keep soil moist (but watch for pests such as slugs-which can just be picked off-under the mulch).In late September, stop fertilizing and watering. When leaves become floppy and yellow, cut them off.Bring the pot indoors and store in a cool room, such as an unheated porch or garage; the temperature should not exceed 17°C and never drop below freezing. Don't water.After about two months, bring the pot into the house where it's room temperature. Water when a new shoot appears, not before; then water twice a week until plant blooms again.It's also possible to grow amaryllis in special bulbous vases filled with water, as you would hyacinths, but make sure the bulbs are well anchored and keep topping up the water.An innovative method for cultivating amaryllis recently introduced by Dutch growers is dry-flowering, where neither soil nor water is needed. They will bloom on their own on any surface (stick them in a wreath or table display, for instance). Dry-flowering is possible with any pre-cooled amaryllis bulb.Out-of-the-ordinary AmaryllisCybister HybridsMost have Latin American names such as ‘Lima', ‘La Paz' and ‘Chico'; bulbs are small and more expensive than those of regular amaryllis; they produce spiky, curly petals that look exotic but can be less reliable than regular onesHippeastrum ‘Dancing Queen' Gorgeous, tall (60 cm), double variety, with froths of frilly petticoats in white-and-red stripes; blooms in only six weeksH. ‘Lady Jane' Medium-tall (35 cm), with big, double, salmon pink flowers, striped in vermilion and white; needs about eight weeks from planting to bloomH. ‘Lemon-Lime' Classified as a miniature (stems reach up to 50 cm) with elegant, lime-streaked, pale green flowers; needs eight weeks to bloomH. ‘Pamela' True miniature (30 cm) with lots of charming, bright scarlet flowers on slim stems; can take three months to bloom. Especially good for dry-flowering (as are ‘Red Lion' and ‘Moonlight') H. ‘Picotee' One of the tallest varieties (about 60 cm); heart-stoppingly beautiful; produces white, contoured blooms edged in red with lime green centres; blooms in about seven weeks ‘Butterfly' Extraordinary conversation piece, with lime green and reddish maroon blooms shaped like butterflies; blooms in about eight weeks; often sends up baby bulbs alongside the primary bulb, so give it a pot with plenty of room Four Myths about Amaryllis Four Myths About AmaryllisThey like to be pot-bound.Amaryllis bulbs will do better in big pots, where their roots have room to spread.Amaryllis shouldn't be placed in direct sunlight when flowering.In reality, full sun is fine until April, when the weather begins to heat up. But never put blooms up against a south-facing window, even in the winter, because it can get too hot and scorch them.Stalks must be chopped off at the base after flowering.Although not as attractive, it's actually better to leave the stalks on (and simply remove the seed heads at the top) because they send nourishment down to the bulbs. Amaryllis won't rebloom unless you put them in the dark for a couple of months after flowering. Light is immaterial. All they really need is a cool room during their dormant phase in the fall.Comely CliviaAmaryllis are easy to grow, but for a change (and a challenge), try cultivating the diva of the amaryllis family-its noble cousin, the clivia, which is expensive and often refuses to bloom. Clivia makes a striking houseplant, often growing 90 centimetres tall, with dark green leaves arranged in a tiered pattern from the base. The only commonly available variety is Clivia miniata (buy clivias ready-potted). It's capable-if you're lucky-of sending forth a sturdy flower stalk twice a year, topped by a brilliant cluster of blossoms in tangerine, orange and yellow.To coax a clivia into bloom, replant it in a clay-not plastic-pot that's at least 30 centimetres in diameter; ordinary container mix or potting soil works fine. The plant doesn't mind low light, but a cool spot is essential. A north-facing window, where the temperature dips to between 7 and 13°C at night in winter, is ideal. Water regularly, but don't let soil get soggy.Starting in November, fertilize once every three to four weeks with a water-soluble product such as 20-20-20 mixed at regular strength. When flattened flower heads (which are sandwiched between the leaves) appear, stop fertilizing.The flower stalk takes several weeks to develop. Once mature, its blooms last for several glorious weeks. After flowering, cut the seed head off if you want the plant to bloom again (otherwise fruit will form). The second round of blooming may occur in July or August, but a lot depends on the nighttime temperatures during summer. Put the pot outside in the warm months, if you can, in a semi-shaded location-and keep your fingers crossed.- Credit
- Sonia Day
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Savoury parsnip recipes Savoury parsnip recipes
Savoury parsnip recipes ofParsnip A cousin of the carrot, the humble parsnip was, at one time, an extremely popular dish. The arrival of the potato, however, knocked this root vegetable off the everyday plate and onto the holiday plate, where it remains a popular dish at Christmas. Not sure how to bring parnsips back into your diet? We've collected nine delicious recipes from CanadianLiving.com, from stews and soups to roasts and chicken dishes, to help you eat parsnips all year round!Middle Eastern spiced carrots and parsnipsSweet potato and pork pieChicken crumbleOld-fashioned beef stew with winter vegetablesCelery root soup with parsnip chipsPotage PaysanneRed wine and rosemary pot roastRoasted fall vegetablesRoasted parsnip soup- Credit
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From the Editor
Garden year-round at CanadianGardening.com!
Outside, the days grow shorter and colder, as our gardens start to wind down in preparation for their long winter's nap. Indoors, I'm potting up amaryllis and watching as a few orchids come back into bloom. Who says you can't garden year-round? Not me!
Of course, no matter what the weather may be doing outside, it's always sunny and flower-filled here on our website, and bright with great information and inspiring ideas, too. -
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Favourite Plants
An ideal book for Canadian gardeners looking for perennials, roses, trees and shrubs to suit their particular locations, from Zone 3 to the warmest climates in the country. It includes planting and growing advice, detailed descriptions and information from the personal experience of expert Canadian gardeners. The lush photographs will inspire every gardener. more
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